RE: Long Travel and water
Given the fact that we do live in earthquake country, it makes sense to us to keep the water tank full just in case of an emergency.
Black and grey tank empty, fuel and water full.If you are storing water for extended periods for insurance "In case of an emergency", then do not plan on drinking that water. Bacteria will grow in the tank when the water sits inside a long time, which is why RV manufacturers recommend you disinfect your water system before the start of the season.
The process is....
- Add so many ounces of household bleach per so many gallons of water.
- Run the faucets to get the solution throughout the plumbing and hot water tank.
- Let sit for so many hours.
- Drain, flush, refill, and you are ready to use and drink the water.
Is there a website stating the bleach formula and duration?
RE: Long Travel and water
My wife likes our water at home so we bring as much of it as we can. We haul the full 41 gallons, sitting behind the rear axle. It's not enough additioanl weight to worry about, and it smooths out the ride too.
We have also benefited from carrying a full tank to freshen-up, taking a shower while parked in a Wal-Mart overnight, during our cross-country rides.
RE: Wheelbase - 190" vs 220" - area of concern?
If you plan to tow anything with a significant tongue weight, then the longer wheel base is the better choice. Dingy towing a car wouldn't be much of a concern with the shorter RV wheel base as there is no additional hang-off weight to speak of. But a trailer or boat could.
There are aftermarket items that can help in making a poor-tow condition better. Helper springs, heavy duty sway bars, rear trac bar, and better shocks, all can help handling and load issues. But then you need to consider the possibility of that additional expense too.
You did mention air bags, so some suspension upgrading is already applied.
RE: What did you add to your MH to make RV'ing easier for you?
#1
Adding A Two Gallon Water Pressure Tank
It improves the performance of the fresh water pump. Water pressure and temperature is now consistent when dry camping, especially benefitial when showering. The pump also cycles on and off nicely at comfortable intervals. No more quick on/off groaning from the pump, extending the life of the pump.
Cost $50
#2
Adding A Slide-Out Bedroom Tray
It mounts under an overhanging cabinet at the foot of our bed. It works great to place our lap-top computer to watch DVD movies in bed. We also use it as a nightstand. When we don't want it, we slide it under the cabinet and it's gone.
Cost $20
#3
Installing An Entry Door Limiter
This limits the swing of the entry door, adjusting it as much as desired. On a strong windy day, the door can easily get ripped out of your hand, swing 180 degrees around, and crash into the side of the RV. Also, in my particular case, this prevents the door from hitting an awning pole. It is engauged and disengauged in seconds, is not visible when not needed, and is self storing.
Cost $5
#4
Window Shade String Reinforcements
I reinforced the shade tensioners that hold the shade strings at the bottom. No more issues with those things pulling out of the wall when bumped hard. The solution looks nice too.
Cost $3 per window
#5
26" Wide Screen TV
We installed a Samsung 26" widescreen TV where a 20" is designed to go.
Cost around $700
#6
Foam Drawer & Cabinet Liners
Wow, what a difference this made with rattles in the RV. We bought solid foam drawer liner material on a roll from a home improvement center. Everything stays put better, and rattles much less.
Cost $7 for a nice size roll
#7
Wall Clock With Indoor & Outdoor Thermometer
You hang the clock on the wall, and place a wireless electronic box in an outdoor storage compartment. The clock displays the time and both indoor & outdoor temperatures.
Cost around $40
#8
Tow A Sports Car
Increased the "Fun" factor as well as mobility.
Cost $11,500 for the car and around $1000 for the tow bar and hitch kit
#9
Improved The Suspension To Improve Handling
The vehicle now handles more like an SUV than an RV
- Replaced the smaller stock front sway bar with heavy duty Roadmaster version
- Added a rear heavy duty Roadmaster sway bar as there was none on my E350 to begin with
- Added a rear Henderson trac bar to eliminate rear tail wagging
- Replaced the stock shocks with Koni-RV adjustables, set to the stiffest setting
- Replaced the stock steering stabilizer with a heavy duty version by Safe-T-Plus
- Got a wheel alignment done. The shop had to use off-set bushings to get the camber set correctly, as it was off more than one inch.
Cost $3900 having a truck suspension shop install everything
IF INTERESTED IN ANYTHING
Email or PM me with your email address, and I will email you some pictures that are self explanitory.
Vacuum Gages For MPG - How To Install? Which One? Etc?
I occasionally read that a few of you have installed a vacuum gauge to assist you to control fuel consumption. Having one does make sense, which brings up my questions here.
I have a 2007 Ford E350 chassis RV with the V10 engine. It's nearly brand new, so I don't want to jury-rig a vacuum gauge on the dash board. I want something that looks cleanly mounted. Not looking "Out of Place". So my questions......
- What brand vacuum gauge do you have?
- Where did you buy it?
- What did it cost?
- Does it have a back-lit light inside for night driving?
- What year & chassis vehicle did you mount it on?
- Where & how did you mount it on or in your dash, and can you see it at a glance?
- When installing it, do you simply identify any vacuum line and "T" into it to get vacuum, or is one vacuum line more applicable for best monitering?
- Do you have a picture of the gauge you can post here or email me directly?
Ideally, I would like to mount a back-lit vacuum gauge "IN" the dash where it is easily seen at a glance, but I don't want to mess up the beautiful wood grain dash board. If the installation and appearance is very clean and fitting, I may consider doing that.
I would appreciate all input & comments.
RE: Class C Overland Exploration Vehicle
I know someone who is special ordering a 2009 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, built on an E450 with an out-fitter's 4 wheel drive package for off-roading.
RE: Buying Used Class C
Small class c's tend to best, IMHO for road trips for 2. Big advantage of a small c besides parks, is that you can park them most anywhere to see sights etc. JMHOAgreed!
My wife and I bought a 23.5 footer B+ (View My Profile) with just the two of us in mind. It can easily accomodate a 3rd adult or two children, but that requires converting the dinette. The RV is very accomodating & comfortable, and we love it. It is easy to drive and maneuver. It's not any bigger than neccessary with plenty of storage too. We take it for 3 weeks at a time, and we don't ever feel cramped. I admit, we don't spend a lot of time inside it though, mostly outdoors. If we could (I'm not retired), we would have no trouble spending winters in Florida in it, but for "True" full-timing, it surely would not be enough to call home.
RE: Shocks....Bilstein or Koni
I searched the Koni site and they do have Koni s for both the E 350 and 450 chassis.Yes, but the ones that come up are the red adjustable ones, not the FSD shocks.
RE: cat-converter
I had a cat fail a couple times, different vehicles. Both times, the material inside the cat rattled like loose marbles.
Assuming you have the later honeycomb cat design, (not the real old pellet design) when the cat is cold, crawl under there and bang the cat with your palm. Any kind of rattling in there and you know for sure it needs to be replaced. I emphasis....It should sound like an empty chamber....NO Rattles At All.
Once the internal cat material comes loose, it shifts around and some of the very tiny honeycomb passage ways become obstructed.
RE: Shocks....Bilstein or Koni
I agree with the above statement.
Definitely get the Koni FSD shocks. Everything I've read on them, they are superior to anything else. They offer a softer more comfortable ride, but instantaneously change as conditions change. I wished Koni made them for the Ford E-series, or I'd have them today.
RE: Newbie where are the water drains?
Maybe you can search for similaries between yours and mine.
Fresh Water Drain
The outlet port of my fresh water tank is a valve with two hoses going from there. One hose goes sideways to the pump, and one goes straight down to the street. The valve handle in one direction, the water goes to the pump. A half turn the other way, and it goes on the street. I am not sure, but at 1/4 turn, it might retain the water inside the tank.
Hot & Cold Plumbing Drains
At the lowest point in my RV (the floor), in my main outside storage compartment, there are two valves that drain plumbing water on the street. Pipes go to the valves from the side. Drain tubes exit the valves straight down to the street. You need to have all faucets open (hot & cold) for the water to drain. Kitchen sink, bathroom sink, and both the inside & outside showers. This done during and after the hot water tank is being drained. Not before.
RE: Buying Used Class C
In my opinion, the method of construction is the heaviest consideration in RV selection. Since you are buying a 5 to 9 year old RV, the best years are behind, and the worst are ahead. Here are some things to look for in a well constructed, older RV, class-C, B+ or A
The best construction method is a one piece fiberglass shell like Coach House makes. But that severely limits your options. Alternatives made as follows should provide you years of good service, even starting out with a 9 year old unit.
- Metal framed floor, walls, and ceiling. NO wood framing.
- Gel coated vacu-bonded fiberglass exterior walls, not flat sheets of fiberglass with seamwork & trim in all the corners, which often have heavy chip board sheathing just behind the fiberglass sheets. Wood rot and formalahyde fumes are concerns with chip board and corner seam work.
- Arched roof. A flat roof will sag over time, with water puddling around the heavy a/c unit. When the caulk fails, in comes the water.
- Fiberglass sheet stock roofing is better over the alternatives, with best long term durability
- Five sided rear fiberglass cap by design, moves the seamwork in from the corners where there is no stress. Seamwork in corners is where many water leaks occur due to the high stresses during driving. Like with the roof, when caulk gets old, it cracks, then in comes the water.
- The same applies for the front cap, which is common on A's and B+s, but hard to find on C's
Any RV made with wood framing and wood exterior walls covered in sheet fiberglass generally will have more issues than those made with the points mentioned above. Since you are buying a used RV, construction issues will come up shortly, so it's best to be avoided.
Do your reseach on what RV's are made this way and see if you can find one that you like and can afford. Be sure to have fun with your mission.
RE: Rivets between cab and cab over snapped?
I vote for nuts and bolts, but be sure to use the locking nuts with the nylon inserts. They will never come loose with vibration.
RE: cat-converter
On the internet, there are hi-flow cats available, cheap, like $100. If your old cat is clogged, I would replace it with a hi-flow. Hi-flow cats can be ordered with or without O2 sensor ports. They are generic, for use on any vehicle. They will pass emission testing too. Hi-flows contribute little if any back pressure.
I have taken my old cars and old RV to my local muffer shop for installation. I would not install a hi-flow if my original cat was good. Only if there was an internal collapse or blockage, or loss of it's heat shield. In my old vehicles, the loss of the heat shield yielded a very hot floor.
Your description of performance may be a bad cat, but it could be something else too. It is sure worth investigating.
Adding: I would not run without a cat, just in-case a border crossing guard inspects for one. That and of coarse, emissions in-general.
RE: Dingy towing.
As with any tow.......
- secondary braking needed if tow is 2500 pounds or more
- a rear trac bar for preventing the rear of the RV from tail wagging (we have a Henderson rear trac bar)
- heavy duty front and rear sway bars. Stock bars I think are 0.9" front and 1.1" rear, both with rubber bushings. Heavy duty ones are 1-3/8" front and 1-1/2" rear with poly bushings. The most affordable ones are made by Helwig.
The idea is to keep your rig with tow as steady as can be when circumstances are abnormal.
I have a Roadmaster Falcon-II hitch system, and it works very well. It's real benefit is ease of alignment for hooking and quick disconnect and swing-up when unhooking. With no secondary braking, we can unhook & drive the car in under 45 seconds when using big strong locks key'd alike, in-place of the smaller screw-link things that come with the kit.
The bulk of the hardware swings up and stays attached to the RV hitch. The tow vehicle has little. None if you spend another minute. It is a very safe and reliable hitch pin system, not a ball hitch. Look up Roadmaster Falcon-II on Google.
RE: New to Towing - Suggestions Please
Our tow vehicle is a light weight 2100 pound Toyota MR2, so we do not have auxilary brakes, but your VUE should.
We use all Roadmaster hardware, both the tow bar and their Falcon-II hitch system, which works easy.
One other item to consider is a rear trac bar installed between the rear axle and frame of your RV. It keeps the RV's rear end from going side-to-side....what RVers call tail wagging. Henderson makes one and it's pricy. We spent the money, and it works great.
We also have front and rear heavy duty stabilizer bars, and Koni-RV shocks. All combined, the RV handles great in winding mountain roads, with the car tracking behind without influence.
I would not worry about a transmission oil cooler. The 26 foot Aspect is on the lighter side of RVs, and your VUE is a common tow vehicle. Ford and GM consider such conditions with their cut-away RV chassis package.
RE: New tires developing ridges
Regarding wheel alignment. I did the same pre-loading of the RV with water, fuel, stuff, etc. I also placed some weights just behind the front seats to help in simulating two people in the cab.
Our camber was off so badly by one inch, the RV suspension shop had to use off-set bushings to get it right, which he says they use on every new RV alignment.
RE: 15% off a Coach House at RV World
I agree with you. In these times, you should be able to get a better discount than 15%. I would search the web for other dealers throughout the country, and see what they are offering with discounts on in-stock CH's as well as custom orders. Either do business with them via traveling there, or use that data as leverage for negotiating with a local dealer.
We got a great deal on our RV last year by shopping around. Our local dealer was too expensive so I then called every dealer I could find on the web. A dealer near Boston quoted a price that was $12,000 less than the local guy. The locals still would not budge. So we placed our order across many states paying $67,200 and picked up the RV at the factory which was 170 miles from home. Even if the factory was far away, I would have traveled to save that kind of money.
For what it's worth, I too loved the Coach House for it's one piece shell as Our Old RV had a single shell. But the Coach House price was way out in the Stratusphere. We found the Same Size & Floorplan made by another company. After researching their construction methods, we went for it. We are extremely happy with our purchase for value, design, quality, and workmanship. At less than half the cost, you'll sacrifice very little. I suggest you check them out. Their website has a Virtual Tour which is a great Power Point slide show with sound, that goes through their construction methods. Send me an email if you have any questions.
RE: New tires developing ridges
I agree with the people discussing new shocks, But.....
you need to hear my story, which just might be your story too.
My old RV Seen Here, got new front tires installed because of the same symptoms you describe. I also had a wheel alignment done.
We go on vacation, putting on 3000-4000 miles and whola! the same strange tire wear. I later mentioned this to a guy at work who asked me a couple questions, which then the "Light Bulb" went off.
When traveling across the Great Plains down I-80 from Chicago to Colorado, we had a very strong & consistent cross wind, which required me to hold the steering wheel at an angle to keep the RV going straight. The consistent cross wind with steering compensation happened over a continuous 1000 miles of driving.
Though our old RV was fairly aero-dynamic, it was light weight which did get easily tossed around from gusty winds. The tire wear was on the leading edges of the direction I compensated...the outer part of one front tire, and the inner part of the other front tire.
I flipped one of the tires so the wear was on the inside of both, and made note on trips there-after. Sure enough, when we had a crosswind for the duration of a couple days on the open road, the tires got chewed up.
If your E350 is easily tossed from cross-winds requiring steering compensation, that could be the cause. What to do about it? Front and rear heavy duty stabilizer bars, and Koni-RV or Bilstein shocks. I don't know if they would completely prevent the tire damage, but they would surely slow down the process.
